Ronco Severo Ribolla Gialla 2022

Ronco Severo is run by Stefano Novello in Collio Friulano, in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, a hillside zone of marl and sandstone known locally as ponca, which drains freely and warms quickly to ripen the late grape fully. Ribolla Gialla, the indigenous white with thick, deeply pigmented skins, is well suited to long maceration. Here it comes from a small 1.2-hectare vineyard and is fermented on its skins for an extended period, which draws tannin, colour and phenolic structure from the fruit and gives the wine its captivating amber hue and firm grip. It then ages twenty-four months in foudres, large old oak casks whose slow oxygen exchange softens the tannin and builds a nutty, oxidative complexity without adding oak flavour. At 14 percent alcohol the wine has real weight. The colour is deep amber. The nose shows dried apricot, orange marmalade, honey, white flowers and caramelised butter, with a walnut and earthy depth. The palate is dry and structured, the skin tannin substantial and the finish long and savoury. Serve at 14 to 16 degrees in a wide glass, decanting to open it up. It suits roast pork, chicken and aged hard cheeses.