Roagna Barolo Pira Vecchie Viti 2020

Roagna is a traditional Piedmont estate, based in Barbaresco, with old vines in a number of historic sites. This Barolo comes from the Pira cru, from the estate's oldest plantings, farmed biodynamically. Roagna replants gaps using massale selection with cuttings from its own vineyards rather than nursery clones, lets grass grow between the rows to promote biodiversity, and ferments with wild yeasts in wooden vats over long macerations. The calcareous marl soils of the cru give Nebbiolo its firm tannin and high acidity, while the old vines yield small crops of concentrated fruit. The wine spends sixty months in large foudres, an unusually long, gentle ageing that allows slow oxygen exchange to resolve the tannin into a fine, savoury texture while keeping the grape's transparency, with no overt oak character. Nebbiolo is lightly coloured, so this is pale garnet, with red cherry, dried rose and raspberry on the nose over dried herbs, leather, tar, liquorice and earth. The palate is medium to full, with bright acidity, fine, deeply structured tannin and a very long, savoury finish. This is a traditional, age-worthy Barolo. Serve at 17 to 18 degrees, decanted well ahead, in a large glass. It suits braised beef, game and mushroom dishes.