Roagna Barbaresco Pajé 2020

Roagna has farmed prized Barolo and Barbaresco plots since the early twentieth century and is now run by the fifth generation, working biodynamically and in a resolutely traditional style. This Barbaresco comes from the Pajé cru, where Nebbiolo grows on the calcareous marl soils that give the wines their perfume and grip. The cool climate and elevation of the Langhe hills, combined with a wide diurnal range, ripen Nebbiolo slowly and preserve its high acidity and firm tannin. In the cellar Roagna favours long macerations, which extract colour, tannin and aromatic depth from extended skin contact, followed by 18 months in large foudres. The neutral oak of the foudre allows gradual oxygen exchange and tannin softening without imposing flavour, so the fruit stays pure. The colour is pale garnet. The nose is classic Nebbiolo: sour cherry, dried rose, tobacco, leather and a savoury herbal edge. The palate is full and structured, the tannins firm and chalky, the finish long with liquorice and tar. This is a wine for the cellar. Serve at 17 to 18 degrees and decant. It calls for braised beef, game or hard alpine cheese.