Riffault Sancerre Skeveldra 2020

Sebastien Riffault works against the Sancerre grain, farming his Loire vineyards biodynamically since 2002 and making natural wines that reflect site over the region's usual crisp template. Skeveldra is single-variety Sauvignon Blanc, picked very ripe, which explains the 14.8 percent alcohol, well above a conventional Sancerre. The grapes come from the limestone and flint soils that define the appellation, and the wine is fermented on native yeasts and aged in barrel. The handling is oxidative, with extended ageing and slow oxygen exchange through the wood that pushes the wine well past a fresh white into a deep, savoury, skin-influenced amber style. Late picking and this method strip out the green character usually linked to the grape, replacing it with dried fruit and nutty depth. The colour is deep gold to amber. The nose carries dried apricot, orange peel and honey with a beeswax note, and the palate is broad, dry and textured, with dried herbs, almond and a long, earthy, savoury finish. Serve at 13 to 14 degrees, decanted.