Riffault Sancerre Auksinis 2013

Sebastien Riffault founded his biodynamic Sancerre estate in 2002 and built a reputation for natural wines that depart sharply from the region's crisp style. Auksinis is single-variety Sauvignon Blanc from southeast and south-facing vineyards on the limestone and flint soils of the appellation. The grapes are picked very ripe, which accounts for the 14.8 percent alcohol, and the wine ferments on native yeasts before ageing in barrel in an oxidative manner. Long, slow oxygen exposure through the wood, combined with extended ageing, develops a dried, nutty profile and strips away the herbaceous character usually tied to Sauvignon Blanc. With more than a decade in bottle, this 2013 has reached a settled, complex, savoury state. The colour is deep gold to amber. The nose carries dried apricot, orange marmalade and honey with a beeswax edge, and the palate is dry, broad and textured, with walnut, dried herbs and a long earthy finish. Serve at 13 to 14 degrees, decanted. It suits roast pork, poultry and aged cheeses.