Riffault Akméniné 2020

Sebastien Riffault farms in Sury-en-Vaux in the south east of the Loire Valley and works apart from most of Sancerre, making natural wines from organically grown Sauvignon Blanc. Akméniné is picked ripe, often with some botrytis, and fermented with native yeast without added sulphur, which gives it a texture and depth far removed from the crisp, aromatic Sancerre most drinkers know. The defining choice is the ageing: 36 months on its lees in barrel. That long, slow contact with the spent yeast, together with measured oxygen exchange through the wood, builds a rich, savoury and gently oxidative character, releasing nutty and honeyed tones while the lees add weight and a broad palate. It is deep gold in the glass. The nose is layered, with dried apricot, beeswax, honey and roasted nuts over a chamomile lift. The palate is dry, textured and long, with a saline, umami finish. This is a wine to decant and serve at 12 to 14 degrees in a large glass.