Remirez de Ganuza Gran Reserva 2016

Remírez de Ganuza is one of the reference estates of Rioja, and its Gran Reserva is among the wines that best show the house. It blends Tempranillo with around ten per cent Graciano from vineyards averaging 60 years of age on estates near the winery in Rioja Alavesa. The old vines crop low and concentrate the fruit, while the cool nights and chalky clay soils of the upper Ebro hold the acidity that lets a wine of this weight age for decades. The fruit is picked by hand and selected bunch by bunch, and the Graciano adds colour, acidity and a savoury lift to the Tempranillo. The wine then spends 39 months in French oak, the long Gran Reserva ageing that softens the tannins through slow oxygen exchange and layers cedar, vanilla and sweet spice over the fruit. The colour is deep garnet. The nose is complex, with ripe plum and cherry over tobacco, leather, cedar and clove. The palate is full and structured, the tannins ripe and fine-grained, the dark fruit and savoury, earthy depth carried into a very long finish. Serve at 17 to 18 degrees and decant well ahead. It suits roast lamb, aged beef and game.