Remelluri Reserva 2017

Remelluri sits on the slopes of the Sierra de Toloño in Rioja Alavesa, and its Reserva was the first wine in the D.O.Ca. made solely from estate-grown fruit, in the manner of a French château. Under Telmo Rodríguez the focus has returned to the land, with Tempranillo joined by Graciano and Garnacha across a patchwork of high parcels on poor calcareous clay and stony soils. Altitude and a marked diurnal range slow ripening and preserve acidity and aromatic detail, while low yields concentrate the fruit. The wine ages around twenty months in a mix of barrels, where gradual oxygen ingress through the oak resolves the firm tannins and adds savoury, smoky complexity that builds on rather than covers the fruit. Expect a deep ruby colour and a layered nose of ripe cherry and plum, leather, tobacco, smoke and wild herbs. The palate is structured and mineral, with grippy but ripe tannins, lifted acidity and a long, earthy finish that rewards patience. This is organically farmed and made to age. Serve at 17 to 18 degrees, decanting an hour ahead, with roast or braised lamb and game.