Ramilo Colares Ramisco 2023

Ramilo is a family estate in Colares, a tiny appellation north of Lisbon where the vineyards sit on deep Atlantic dune sand just metres from the ocean. The sand never carried phylloxera, so the Ramisco vines grow ungrafted on their own roots, trained low against the constant coastal wind. Ramisco is a thick-skinned, naturally high-acid grape, and the cool maritime climate keeps sugars and alcohol low, here landing at 12 percent. The farming is biodynamic, and the wine ages 24 months in barrel, where slow oxygen exchange through the staves softens the firm tannins without covering the fruit. The colour is a bright translucent red. The nose leads with red currant and sour cherry over dried herbs, leather and a clear saline note that reads straight from the seaside sand. The palate is lean and structured, with grippy tannins, racy acidity and a savoury, salt-tinged finish. This is a coastal red built for the table rather than the armchair. Serve at 16 to 17 degrees in a medium bowl, and give it 30 minutes of air to let the tannins settle. It suits grilled oily fish, roast pork and aged sheep cheeses.