Pozo Alto 2018

Olivier Riviere settled in Rioja after working with leading estates in Burgundy and Spain, and farms his vineyards without herbicides or chemical fertilisers, picking by hand and fermenting with the grapes' own yeasts. Pozo Alto comes from old bush vines planted in 1930 in the limestone-clay soils around Laguardia in Rioja Alavesa, a cool, high corner of the region. The blend is Tempranillo with Garnacha and Graciano, the old vines giving low yields and concentrated, structured fruit, while the elevation and poor soils keep the acidity fresh. Ageing takes place in demi-muid casks, larger than a standard barrique, which means gentler oak influence and slower oxygen exchange that builds texture without heavy toast. The wine is medium to deep ruby, with a nose of red berries, cherry and plum lifted by dried herbs, black pepper and a savoury, leathery, earthy depth. The palate is medium bodied and detailed, with fine, firm tannins and bright acidity carrying a long, savoury finish. Serve at 16 to 17 degrees and decant ahead. It suits roast lamb, beef and aged hard cheese.