Port Ellen Rare Malts Selection 20 Years Old 1978

This Port Ellen, an official release,, a 20 year old from 1978 and bottled at 60.9%. Port Ellen was dating to 1825 on the Kildalton shore of Islay and brought to a halt in 1983. Most of its make once went to blends, but its single malt became the prize.

Distilled in onion shaped copper pot stills on Leorin Lochs water, yielding the poised, maritime smoke of classic Port Ellen. Refill bourbon wood held the spirit, flattering its citric, oily smoke. Around two decades in oak knit the smoke with the wood into a maritime, citrus edged malt. Maturation in old refill casks keeps the distillery character front and centre. Diageo invested heavily to raise the distillery again two centuries on. Long island ageing lends a saline thread to the deep smoke. The closed years only deepened the legend around the malt. A whisky measured now in dwindling casks rather than fresh spirit.

Bottled at a cask strength 60.9%, it is intense. Lemon zest and coastal salt ride on a coastal peat smoke, with soft vanilla and a touch of coconut from the cask. It is structured and a touch austere, the refill oak keeping it lean. It closes long, smoky and maritime. This is a finite pour from Islay's most mourned distillery.