Port Ellen 41 Years Old 1979 Cask #DL 13800 (XOP)

From Douglas Laing comes this Port Ellen, a 41 year old from 1979, drawn from cask DL 13800 and bottled at 49.6%. A release of 299 bottles. Port Ellen was first founded in 1825 beside the bay at Port Ellen on Islay and closed in 1983 and long mourned. Most of its make once went to blends, but its single malt became the prize.

Made in onion shaped stills on soft Islay water, building the oily, briny style it is loved for. A refill American oak cask held it, keeping the distillery character to the fore. At this great age the peat is a ghostly whisper over beeswax, old oak and sea salt. Maturation in old refill casks keeps the distillery character front and centre. The casks were filled before the stills fell silent in 1983. Diageo invested heavily to raise the distillery again two centuries on. Long island ageing lends a saline thread to the deep smoke.

At 49.6%, undiluted, it is bold and smoky. Crystallised lemon and a salty tang ride on a smoky, mineral note, with a whisper of coconut from the cask. A crystallised lemon and a saline tang lift the smoke. Salt, smoke and wax draw out the close. This is a finite pour from Islay's most mourned distillery.