Port Ellen 34 Years Old 1979 Cask #RO/12/08 (G&M)

A Port Ellen single malt, selected and bottled by Gordon & MacPhail, a 34 year old Islay malt, from 1979, drawn from cask RO/12/08 and bottled at 46%. 654 bottles in all. The legendary Port Ellen, established in 1825 beside the bay at Port Ellen on Islay, was closed in 1983 and long mourned. Its reputation only grew as the casks ran down.

The barley was heavily peated, dried over smoke from Islay's own peat, made in onion shaped stills on soft Islay water, for a peat reek tempered by salt and citrus. Maturation in Oloroso sherry laid smoked dried fruit over the peat. At such an age the peat is soft and distant, the malt waxy, oily and profound. Coastal warehousing lends a saline, maritime note as the spirit breathes by the sea. The refined, citric smoke set it apart from its more medicinal Islay neighbours. Laid down before 1983, this is spirit from a distillery that stood silent for forty years.

At 46% it is smooth and elegant. The Oloroso brings smoked fig, raisin and walnut, and embers of Islay peat carries salted citrus and a soft wax, with a quiet sweetness from the refill cask. Soft embers and brine sit behind the smoke. A long, briny finish smoulders to the end. This is a rare survivor of the 1983 closure.