Port Ellen 27 Years Old 1983 Cask #627 (The Whisky Talker)

The Whisky Talker bottled this Port Ellen single malt at 27 year old, from 1983, drawn from cask 627 and bottled at 46%. The outturn was 164 bottles. Opened in 1825 by the sea on Islay's south shore, Port Ellen was silenced in 1983 when Islay had one distillery too many. Most of its make once went to blends, but its single malt became the prize.

Drawn off traditional pot stills fed by the Leorin Lochs, to build a smoke at once oily, briny and refined. It rested in ex-Bourbon oak, the wood holding back so the peat speaks. At this age the smoke turns gentle and oily, the spirit deep, briny and refined. Refill wood flatters Port Ellen, holding back the vanilla so the smoke and citrus speak. John Ramsay developed the distillery through the middle of the 19th century. The drum maltings built in 1973 still turn out barley for Islay today.

Reduced to 46%, it is mellow. Crystallised lemon and a salty tang ride on a smoky, mineral note, with a thread of vanilla from the bourbon wood. A crystallised lemon and a saline tang lift the smoke. Salt, smoke and wax draw out the close. This is spirit from the lost years of Port Ellen, finite for good.