Port Ellen 26 Years Old 1982 Cask #DL 4909 (Douglas Laing)

From Douglas Laing comes this Port Ellen matured to 26 year old, from 1982, drawn from cask DL 4909 and bottled at 50%. Only 150 bottles were released. Port Ellen stood beside the bay at Port Ellen on Islay from its founding in 1825 until it was closed in 1983 and long mourned. Most of its make once went to blends, but its single malt became the prize.

Made in onion shaped stills on soft Islay water, building the oily, briny style it is loved for. Maturation in a refill ex-Bourbon barrel kept the malt lean and smoky. Decades have eased the peat to a soft reek over beeswax and old oak. Maturation in old refill casks keeps the distillery character front and centre. Its warehouses by the bay, built under John Ramsay, still stand as listed buildings. The peat came from Islay's own Duich Moss, localising the whole character. For years the spirit went quietly into blends before its single malt became a legend.

At 50%, undiluted, it is bold and smoky. Crystallised lemon and a salty tang ride on a soft maritime smoke, with a touch of vanilla and cream from the wood. A crystallised lemon and a saline tang lift the smoke. A waxy, gently medicinal finish lingers long. This is a collectable relic of a cult Islay name.