Port Ellen 24 Years Old 1982 (Connoisseurs Choice)

This is a Port Ellen single malt, chosen and bottled by Gordon & MacPhail, a 24 year old Islay malt, from 1982 and bottled at 40%. The legendary Port Ellen, established in 1825 on Islay's southern coast near the village of Port Ellen, was closed in 1983 in the whisky downturn. Annual Special Releases through Diageo sealed its mythic status.

Islay peat dried the malt, lending the spirit its coastal smoke, giving the elegant, structured smoke that set Port Ellen apart. The spirit was run through copper pot stills on soft island water. An Oloroso butt held it, sherry and smoke twining together. Decades have eased the peat to a soft reek over beeswax and old oak. The peat phenols fade only slowly, which is why even very old Port Ellen keeps its smoke. The spirit breathed sea air through long maturation on the island.

At 40% it is soft, smoky and oily. The Oloroso brings smoked fig, raisin and walnut, and a gentle vanilla note, while an elegant, structured smoke carries brine, wax and a mineral edge. A lanolin wax and a coastal salinity give it real weight. The finish runs oily, saline and slow. This is one of the great ghost whiskies of Islay.