Port Ellen 23 Years Old 1983 Selected by The Way of Spirits (Waddell Hepburn)

Waddell Hepburn selected this Port Ellen, a 23 year old Islay malt, from 1983 and bottled at 54.1%. Port Ellen, first founded in 1825 by the sea on Islay's south shore, was silenced in 1983 when Islay had one distillery too many. Diageo's Special Releases turned it into a cult name.

Peat smoke from Islay's bogs dried the malt to its smoky pitch, drawn off traditional pot stills fed by the Leorin Lochs, for the refined smoke that made its name. Refill ex-Bourbon casks held the spirit, the wood Port Ellen is most often found in. At this age the smoke turns gentle and oily, the spirit deep, briny and refined. Refill ex-Bourbon oak, having given its sharpest notes to an earlier fill, lets the peat and the spirit lead. The peat came from Islay's own Duich Moss, localising the whole character. For years the spirit went quietly into blends before its single malt became a legend.

At cask strength 54.1% it is muscular. Drifting Islay peat smoke carries salted citrus and a soft wax, with soft vanilla and a touch of coconut from the cask. Soft embers and brine sit behind the smoke. It fades on smoke, citrus and a saline tang. This is a revered Islay malt from a distillery silent for forty years.