Port Ellen 23 Years Old 1983 Cask #DMG 2397 (Douglas McGibbon)

Bottled by Douglas McGibbon, this Port Ellen, aged 23 year old, from 1983, drawn from cask DMG 2397 and bottled at 46%. Built in 1825 on Islay's southern coast near the village of Port Ellen, Port Ellen was closed in 1983 in the whisky downturn. Port Ellen distilled again from 2024, yet this is spirit from the closed era.

The barley was kilned over peat to around thirty five phenol parts per million and run through copper pot stills on soft island water, for the austere, structured peat the malt is known for. An ex-Bourbon hogshead held it, the soft oak letting the Islay character lead. Long ageing leaves a mellow smoke, a lanolin wax and a maritime depth. Port Ellen was matured largely in refill casks, which sharpen the smoke and leave the malt a touch austere. Each Diageo Special Release thinned a stock that could never be replaced.

At an approachable 46% it is refined. A graceful Islay smoke runs over a waxy, briny lift, with a light vanilla from the refill oak. The texture is oily and coating, the smoke threaded with sea salt. The finish smoulders gently, oily and long. This is stock from the legendary closed era, ever scarcer.