Port Ellen 14 Years Old 1979 Cask #1849 – 1851 (Signatory)

Signatory Vintage bottled this Port Ellen single malt, a 14 year old Islay malt, from 1979, drawn from cask 1849 - 1851 and bottled at 43%. Just 1200 bottles were filled. Built in 1825 beside the bay at Port Ellen on Islay, Port Ellen was closed in 1983 and long mourned. Most of its make once went to blends, but its single malt became the prize.

Made in onion shaped stills on soft Islay water, building the oily, briny style it is loved for. A refill American oak cask held it, keeping the distillery character to the fore. At this age the smoke is still bright and forward, the spirit lively. The slow loss of the angel's share, a percent or two each year, has concentrated the liquid over decades. A whisky measured now in dwindling casks rather than fresh spirit. Smoke, salt and citrus mark it out from its Islay neighbours. Each bottling is a finite draw on a stock that ended in 1983.

At an approachable 43% it is refined. Crystallised lemon and a salty tang ride on a smoky, mineral note, with a thread of vanilla from the bourbon wood. A crystallised lemon and a saline tang lift the smoke. Salt, smoke and wax draw out the close. This is spirit from the lost years of Port Ellen, finite for good.