Port Askaig 1997 SMS (Speciality Drinks Ltd)

The bottler Speciality Drinks Ltd released this Caol Ila, a 20 year old, distilled in 1997, from cask 2867, bottled at 54.5%. Caol Ila is an east coast Islay distillery on the strait facing Jura. Port Askaig is a tiny settlement on the rugged east coast of Islay.

Run from peated malt through tall stills on Loch nam Ban water, giving a clean, lemony peat. A sherry cask wrapped the spirit in dried fruit and a nutty depth. At oxidative maturity aldehydes and esters lend dried fruit while ellagitannins add a drying, structured grip, the smoke now mellow. Time in oak deepens the oily body while the maritime smoke stays bright. The spirit's lightness lets sherry, wine and bourbon casks all show through. Sea air works into the maturing casks, lending a briny, coastal lift. Diageo's Special Releases have featured both peated and unpeated Caol Ila.

Bottled at a cask strength 54.5%, it is intense. A bonfire smoke with lemon and sea salt, with dried fruit, fig and walnut from the cask. A maritime salt and a lemon lift run through it. A long, briny finish ends on lemon and soft smoke. This is an Islay malt that wears its smoke lightly.