Port Askaig 19 Years Old SMS Harbour (Speciality Drinks Ltd)

This Caol Ila was bottled by the bottler Speciality Drinks Ltd, a 19 year old, bottled at 45.8%. Caol Ila is the smoky backbone of the Johnnie Walker blends. The six tall stills sit behind picture windows looking out to Jura.

This was worked from peated malt for the lighter Islay style, building a refined, maritime peat. An American oak hogshead added vanilla and a light toffee. At oxidative maturity aldehydes and esters lend dried fruit while ellagitannins add a drying, structured grip, the smoke now mellow. The clean spirit shows the cask clearly, which is why it suits so many wood types. The spirit's lightness lets sherry, wine and bourbon casks all show through. Maturation by the sea gives the malt its mineral, sea spray character. Malt comes from the Port Ellen maltings on the south of the island. Phenols from the peat smoke carry the medicinal, lemony edge through the years.

At 45.8% it is supple and oily. A smoky, briny coastal character, with a light vanilla and a touch of coconut. It is clean and coastal, the peat and lemon to the fore. Lemon, soft ash and sea salt see it out. This is one of the most versatile of the Islay malts.