Picchioni Rosso d’Asia 2021

Andrea Picchioni is among the leading growers of Oltrepo Pavese, the hilly wine district of southern Lombardy whose difficult, sloping vineyards were long neglected before producers like him restored them through organic farming and low intervention winemaking. The wine is built on Croatina, the structural local grape, completed by Ughetta di Solinga, the regional name for Vespolina, which lends perfume and pepper. The slopes give good drainage and a wide swing between warm days and cool nights, holding acidity and slowing ripening so the fruit keeps freshness alongside its tannin. Twelve months in large foudre allows gentle oxygen exchange that softens the firm Croatina tannins without layering on obvious oak, while the natural approach keeps the fruit direct. It pours deep ruby with a garnet edge. The nose runs to dark plum, sour cherry, dried herbs and black pepper, with a leathery, earthy undertone. The palate is medium to full, savoury and grippy, the acidity keeping it lively through a dry, mineral finish. Serve at 16 to 18 degrees, ideally decanted an hour ahead. Good with braised beef, roast pork or mushroom dishes.