Petrakopoulos Mavro Mavrodaphne 2021

Petrakopoulos farms organically on Kefalonia, the Ionian island reviving a winemaking tradition that long predates its neighbours, and this red is a dry expression of Mavrodaphne, a dark-skinned native grape usually reserved for sweet fortified wine. Made dry, it keeps the grape's deep colour and concentration. Kefalonia's limestone soils and maritime climate, with warm days tempered by sea breezes and cool nights, ripen the fruit fully while holding the acidity that keeps the wine fresh. After fermentation it ages twelve months in oak barrels, where measured oxygen exchange softens the tannin and adds spice, cedar and a cocoa-tinged depth. It pours deep, saturated ruby. The nose is intense, with ripe plum and dark cherry over liquorice, black pepper, dried herbs and a savoury, oak-spiced edge. The palate is full and rich, the fruit dark and concentrated, the tannins firm but ripe, and a warming, spiced finish carries the southern Mediterranean character through. This is a distinctive, structured island red. Serve at 16 to 18 degrees, decanted an hour ahead, in a large glass. It suits grilled red meats and aged cheeses.