Pequeñas Puertas Jirafas 2023

Pequenas Puertas is a range of single-parcel wines from Proyecto Zorzal, the Sanz family estate in Navarra, made in partnership with the Argentine winemaker Matias Michelini. The project reads its old vineyards plot by plot to capture the historical landscape of the region. Viura, the white grape of Rioja and Navarra, is fresh and fairly neutral, which makes it a clear canvas for site and vessel. Here the wine is fermented and aged for fifteen months in old stone lagares and cement, vessels that give texture and a subtle grip while adding no oak flavour, so the fruit and minerality stay to the fore. Working in concrete and stone rather than barrel keeps the wine fresh and true to the grape. The colour is pale straw. The nose is delicate, with green apple, white peach and a hint of white flowers, and the palate is light, fresh and clean, with a gentle texture from the extended ageing and a crisp, dry finish. This is an easy-going, characterful white. Serve well chilled at 9 to 11 degrees.