Penfolds St. Henri Shiraz 2021

St. Henri is one of Penfolds' longest-running Shiraz labels, blended from vineyards spread across South Australia to even out the vagaries of a single site. The state's warm continental climate ripens Shiraz fully, producing ripe dark fruit and higher alcohol, while cooler nights and older vines on varied soils keep the acidity and tannin in frame. The defining choice is the ageing: 18 months in very large, well-used French and American oak vats rather than small new barrels. Old wood exchanges only a little oxygen and adds no fresh vanilla or toast, so the fruit and the wine's structure lead while the tannins soften and knit. The 2021 is deep and full bodied, with ripe plum, dark cherry and blackberry over black pepper, clove and a leathery, meaty savouriness. The palate is generous but composed, the tannins firm and fine grained, the finish long and spiced. Decant an hour ahead and serve at 17 to 18 degrees in a large glass. It sits well with roast beef, grilled lamb and hard aged cheese.