Peña El Gato Garnachas Viejas 2022

Juan Carlos Sancha has been central to rescuing old varieties in Rioja Alta, and works 5.5 hectares of organic vineyards in the high Najerilla valley. This wine comes from a single 95 year old Garnacha Vieja plot at 750 metres on shallow clay-lime soil. Old vines crop very little, which concentrates flavour, while the altitude brings cool nights that hold acidity and aromatic freshness in a grape that ripens to high sugar and alcohol. Garnacha oxidises readily, so the shallow lime soil and the cool site help keep the fruit bright rather than jammy. The wine spends 11 months in 500 litre French oak barrels, a larger format than the standard barrique, which gives gentle oxygen exchange and softens the tannin without heavy wood flavour. The colour is medium ruby. The nose offers red berries, plum, dried thyme and black pepper, with earth and liquorice behind. The palate is full and warm at 14.5 per cent, balanced by fresh acidity and a peppery, mineral finish from the limestone. Serve at 16 to 18 degrees. It suits roast lamb and grilled red meat.