Olivares Valor de Olivares 1996

Olivares Valor de Olivares 1996 is a long aged sweet red from the D.O. Jumilla in Murcia, made from Monastrell, the thick skinned grape that dominates this hot, arid corner of southeastern Spain. Bodegas Olivares pioneered sweet Monastrell here before the appellation formally recognised the style, and set aside part of the 1996 production in large old barrels, now released after roughly 25 years. Monastrell ripens late and thrives on the poor limestone and sandy soils under the region's fierce sun, concentrating sugar, colour and structure in small berries. For this style the grapes are overripened to raisin on the vine, concentrating their sugars, before a sweet wine is made and held for decades in old wooden casks. That extended oxidative ageing is the defining process: slow exposure to air through the wood transforms primary fruit into deep dried fruit and roasted character while softening the tannins. The colour is deep mahogany garnet. The nose shows dried fig, date and walnut over dark chocolate. The palate is intensely sweet and concentrated, with prune, raisin and caramel carried on a savoury, warming finish. Serve at 14 to 16C in a small glass, with dark chocolate, blue cheese or dried fruit.