Olivares Dulce Monastrell 2020

Bodegas Olivares works in the D.O. Jumilla in Murcia, a hot, dry corner of the Spanish Levante where Monastrell ripens fully and reliably. This sweet red comes from old, ungrafted vines planted on deep sandy soils, a substrate that allowed them to survive phylloxera and that drains quickly while holding little water, concentrating the fruit. The Mediterranean climate brings long sun hours and a wide day to night temperature swing, so the grapes accumulate high sugar while keeping enough acidity to carry the sweetness. The fruit is left to overripen and partially shrivel on the vine, raisining the berries and concentrating sugar before fermentation is arrested to retain natural residual sweetness, with a period in oak adding structure and a savoury spice edge. The colour is dense, almost opaque purple. The nose shows ripe plum, dried fig and honey over cocoa and a touch of vanilla from the wood. The palate is thick and warming, with prune and raisin balanced by Monastrell's grip so it stays rich rather than cloying. Serve lightly chilled at around 14C in a small glass. It suits dark chocolate puddings, mature hard cheese and dried fruit.