Old Pulteney 2011 HB (Hart Brothers) (46%)

Bottled by Hart Brothers, this Old Pulteney, a 12 year old from 2011 and bottled at 46%. Pulteney, founded in 1826 at Wick, on the windswept northeast coast, Inver House has run it as a flagship malt since 1995. Water comes from Loch Hempriggs, carried by a lade Thomas Telford laid in 1807.

It was run through the unusual stills, the wash still topped flat where the swan neck was cut, before resting in warehouses within sight of the harbour. It was matured in refill ex-Bourbon oak, the backbone of the Pulteney style. Around twelve to fifteen years the malt rounds into honey, citrus and sea air. Long, cool ageing builds the oily texture Pulteney is known for. Inver House has built its single malt range around the distillery since 1995. The honeyed, waxy core is the signature of the maritime malt of the far north. Robert Cumming reopened the silent distillery in 1951 as demand for whisky returned.

At 46% it is supple and honeyed. A gentle vanilla and coconut from the wood, with a briny, oily edge. It is clean and bright, the coastal salt lifting the honey. Salt, honey and oak draw out the close. This is a coastal Highland malt from the edge of the country.