Old Brothers Bear’s House 2016

A 2016 grogue from Cap Verde bottled by Old Brothers, the French independent selection house. Grogue is the islands' traditional cane-juice spirit, agricole in everything but the protected name, so this sits firmly in the fresh-pressed sugar-cane juice camp rather than the molasses mainstream. It is unaged and pot distilled, which keeps the spirit weighty and characterful at a moderate 44.6%.

The nose leads with solvent lift over dry grass, the volatile signature of a young cane-juice rum, then settles into something soft and fresh. The palate is built on sugar cane and lemon peel with a green, herbal edge, and a flicker of tropical fruit such as lychee and mango rounds the middle. It runs a touch lean and acidic, finishing on sugar cane, lime and herbs. Added sugar is not declared; the dry, vegetal profile is exactly what an honest white grogue should be, and it makes a lively base for a Ti' Punch.