Oban Distillers Edition 15 Years Old 1997

From a 1997 vintage bottled in 2012, this 15 year old is one of the annual Distillers Editions finished in Montilla Fino sherry. It comes from the tiny urban distillery founded by John and Hugh Stevenson in 1794, one of the smallest distilleries in Scotland, at the heart of the Oban harbour town.

The whisky was double matured, ex-Bourbon oak first and then dry Fino wood. The spirit comes off compact pot stills run slowly and condenses in wooden worm tubs warmed to stretch the copper conversation, tempering a heavy system into the light, fruity make that gives the pale sherry a clean canvas. The Distillers Edition has long been the sherry touched companion to the standard 14, and the driest sherry keeps it food friendly rather than sweet, true to the distillery's brisk coastal character.

At 43% it keeps to the dry, savoury line. The cask gives roasted almond, a bready note and a saline edge rather than sweet fruit, the flor leaving it crisp while spent lignin adds a light vanilla. Honey, citrus and sea air lift beneath, a wisp of smoke carrying a long, nutty finish. It drinks as a brisk, saline aperitif rather than a rich after dinner sherry style.