Neso Syrah 2022

Neso is the Syrah from Bodegas Tesalia, the estate the Golding family founded at Arcos de la Frontera in the Sierra de Cádiz, deep in Andalusia. This is warm-climate southern Spain, and the vineyards sit at altitude on chalky albariza-influenced soils that hold water through a long dry summer and lend freshness to fruit that would otherwise turn jammy. The elevation widens the gap between hot days and cool nights, so the grapes ripen slowly and keep their acidity and colour. After fermentation the wine ages in oak barrels, where slow oxygen exchange through the staves softens the tannins and adds vanilla, clove and a savoury cedar edge while the fruit settles. The result pours a deep cherry red with violet tints. The nose leads with ripe red and black fruit, cherry and plum, lifted by black pepper and a smoky, peppery spice that is typical of Syrah. The palate is full and warm at 14.5 per cent, with rounded tannins and a long, lightly toasted finish. Serve at 16 to 18 degrees, ideally decanted an hour ahead, alongside roast lamb or grilled beef.