Muchada-Léclapart Lumière 2023

Muchada-Léclapart is a small partnership between Alejandro Muchada, an architect turned winemaker, and David Léclapart, a biodynamic grower from Champagne, working the Barrio Alto of Sanlúcar de Barrameda in Cádiz. Lumière is a still, dry Palomino, the sherry grape here made without fortification or flor. What sets it apart is the soil. These are the same albariza chalks that underpin the great Jerez vineyards, brilliant white and rich in limestone, holding winter rain deep in the ground and reflecting light back into the low canopy. Farmed biodynamically and picked early to hold acidity, the fruit is fermented in barrel with wild yeasts and left on its fine lees, which adds texture and a faint bready depth while the neutral wood lends breath rather than flavour. The colour is pale straw. The nose is delicate and precise, with white flowers, green apple and fresh lemon over chamomile and a clear saline note. The palate is dry, mineral and finely textured, its chalky, salt-edged finish the mark of the albariza. Serve chilled at 9 to 11 degrees. It suits shellfish, white and oily fish and hard cheeses.