Muchada-Léclapart Étoile 2023

Muchada-Léclapart made this natural white from Palomino in VT Cádiz, in Andalusia, bringing together the Andalusian architect Alejandro Muchada and the Champagne grower David Léclapart. It comes from a single plot of around 0.7 hectares of albariza, the bright chalky soil of the Jerez country, planted with vines about 50 years old. Albariza holds winter rain deep in its white chalk and reflects the southern sun, which lets Palomino ripen while keeping a firm acid line and a strong saline character. Grown outside the fortified tradition, this is a still, dry table wine rather than a sherry. It spent 12 months in sherry oak barrels, which here work as a neutral, breathing vessel, adding slow oxygen exchange and a light nutty texture without the flor ageing or oxidation of the Marco de Jerez. The colour is pale gold. The nose is lemon, green apple and citrus peel with white flowers and a briny lift, and the palate is dry and taut, saline and chalky, with an almond edge and a long, mineral finish. Serve at 10 to 12 degrees in a white wine glass.