Moric Blaufränkisch Burgenland 2023

Moric is the project Roland Velich set up outside his family winery to make the case for Blaufränkisch, the variety behind Austria's most serious reds. The fruit grows in Burgenland, the warm region along the Hungarian border, farmed biodynamically. Burgenland sits in a continental climate where warm summer days and cool nights extend ripening and hold acidity, which is why Blaufränkisch from here keeps its tension even at full ripeness. The grape is naturally peppery and high in acid, and the cooler sites give it a savoury, almost mineral cast. After fermentation the wine ages in wood, where slow oxygen exchange softens the tannins and knits the fruit to a darker, earthier frame without burying the variety under oak. The 2023 is a vibrant cherry red with purple lights. The nose leads with ripe red fruit, cherry and redcurrant, backed by black pepper, dried herbs and a touch of leather and woodsmoke. The palate is medium bodied, fresh and finely structured, with firm but ripe tannins and a long savoury finish. Serve at 16 to 18 degrees in a Burgundy glass. It suits roast beef, game and mushroom dishes.