Montecillo Gran Reserva 2017

Montecillo makes its Gran Reserva in Fuenmayor, in Rioja Alta near the Ebro, from Tempranillo grown on thirty-five-year-old vines with a portion of Graciano for acidity and aromatic lift. Rioja Alta sits at higher altitude with a cooler, partly Atlantic-influenced climate, which preserves freshness and gives these wines their elegance and ageing potential. Older vines yield less and give more concentrated, balanced fruit. The wine follows the traditional Gran Reserva path: around two years in oak followed by four years in bottle before release, an unusually long élevage. Extended barrel ageing allows slow oxidation that softens tannin and develops tertiary aromas, while the long rest in bottle integrates the wood and brings the savoury, mature character Rioja is known for. Expect a garnet red with bricking at the rim and aromas of red cherry, dried fruit, leather, tobacco, sweet spice and vanilla. The palate is medium-bodied, supple and savoury, with fine, resolved tannin and a long, complex finish. This is drinking well now. Serve at 16 to 17 degrees, ideally decanted off any sediment. It suits roast lamb, beef and aged cheese.