Montauto Silio Ciliegiolo 2023

Riccardo Lepri runs the family winery Montauto in the DOC Maremma Toscana, in the green hills of southern Tuscany around ten kilometres from the sea. Ciliegiolo, whose name comes from the Italian for cherry, is an old Tuscan variety prized for its perfume and bright red fruit. The coastal setting brings sea breezes that moderate the Mediterranean heat and keep acidity fresh, while the hill sites give good drainage. The grapes are grown organically, which favours older vines and balanced yields rather than concentration for its own sake. Ageing in wood is restrained, smoothing the texture without covering the fruit, so the wine keeps its lifted, fragrant character. The colour is bright ruby. The nose is full of fresh cherry, raspberry and red berries with rose petal and a wild herb edge. The palate is medium bodied and juicy, with soft tannin, fresh acidity and a peppery, savoury finish. Serve at 14 to 16C, and a light chill suits it in warm weather. It works with roast chicken, grilled pork and tomato-based pasta.