Miquel Pons 77 Veremes Xarel·lo Vermell Brisat 2024

This is a skin-contact white, or brisat in Catalan, from Cava Miquel Pons in D.O. Penedes, made from Xarel·lo Vermell, a rare pink-skinned mutation of Xarel·lo that the estate has worked to revive as part of its 77 Veremes range of native grapes. Unlike a standard white, the juice is left in contact with the skins during fermentation, which is what makes this an orange-style wine: the extended contact draws colour, gentle tannin and phenolic compounds from the skins, giving more texture and grip than the grape would show if pressed straight away. It is then aged for four months in barrel and glass demijohns, a short, restrained ageing that keeps the wine fresh rather than heavily oxidative. The colour is light golden, deeper than a conventional white, and the nose leads with orange peel, white peach and dried herbs over a note of almond and fresh dough. The palate is dry, with a light skin-derived grip and a savoury, textured feel that sets it apart, finishing clean and herbal. This is a fresh, approachable take on skin-contact wine at low alcohol. Serve at 10 to 12 degrees. It suits cheese, poultry and lighter meats.