Michelini i Mufatto El Rapolao 2019

Michelini i Mufatto make El Rapolao in D.O. Bierzo, in Castilla y León, from the native Mencía grape. Argentine winemakers Andrea Mufatto and Gerardo Michelini were drawn to the slate soils of Ozuela, a small Bierzo village of largely forgotten vineyards, and with local winemaker Javier González they farm native varieties to show the terroir as fully and freshly as possible. The slate slopes around Ozuela drain well and reflect heat onto the vines, while the cool mountain setting keeps alcohol moderate, here 12.3 per cent, and locks in acidity and aromatic lift. Old vines bring concentration without weight. The wine is aged for 12 months in used French oak, so the barrels lend structure and gentle air rather than oak flavour, leaving the fruit clear and direct. The colour is bright medium ruby. The nose is intense, with blackberry, black cherry, liquorice and balsamic, herbal notes over a stony minerality. The palate is fresh and savoury, smooth in texture, with fine tannin and a long mineral finish. Serve at 14 to 16 degrees, lightly chilled if you like. It pairs with pork, poultry, game birds and mushroom dishes.