Maupertuis Neyrou 2022

Jean Maupertuis works in the Auvergne, a high-altitude region in central France whose vineyards sit on volcanic basalt and granite. He came here in the 1990s and now farms organically, making his wines with minimal intervention. Neyrou is a single-variety Pinot Noir from young vines. The volcanic subsoils and cool continental climate, with a wide swing between warm days and cold nights, hold acidity and keep the fruit fresh and red-toned rather than ripe and dark. Fermentation runs on wild yeast with little or no added sulphur, and the wine is raised without new oak, so the character comes from grape and soil rather than barrel. The colour is a bright, pale ruby. The nose leads with strawberry and cherry, with rhubarb and a mineral, earthy edge. The palate is light and vivacious, with fine tannins, red-fruit clarity and a savoury, stony finish. Serve at 14 to 15 degrees, and open half an hour ahead if you can. It suits roast chicken, charcuterie and mushroom dishes.