Maupertuis La Guillaume 2020

Jean Maupertuis left a job in IT in 1992 to buy a small vineyard near Clermont-Ferrand in the Auvergne, one of the oldest wine regions in central France. After a spell in the Mâconnais he met Marcel Lapierre, who introduced him to natural winemaking, and he now farms biodynamically. La Guillaume is a single-variety Gamay grown on the region's volcanic basalt and granite soils. Those subsoils and the cool continental climate, with warm days and cold nights, retain acidity and give the wine freshness and drive. The grapes are fermented with wild yeast and minimal sulphur, and the wine is raised without new oak, so the fruit and mineral character lead. The colour is a deep, bright ruby. The nose shows blackberry, blueberry and raspberry with a peppery, earthy lift. The palate is juicy, light and full of energy, with soft tannins, balanced acidity and a sharp, savoury finish. Serve at 14 to 15 degrees. It works with roast pork, poultry and mushroom dishes, and takes a light chill well.