Matsu El Pícaro 2024

Matsu El Pícaro is made by the Matsu winery in D.O. Toro, in the northwest of Castilla y León, from Tinta de Toro, the local strain of Tempranillo. Toro is one of the few places where ungrafted, pre-phylloxera vines still survive, untouched by the aphid that devastated European vineyards in the 19th century, and the estate draws on this old material alongside its younger plots. The region is hot and dry, sitting at altitude on sandy and clay soils, with cold nights that keep the fruit fresh despite the heat. El Pícaro is the young, vegan-friendly wine in the range. Rather than oak, it spends two months on its lees in cement tanks, which keeps the fruit primary and bright while the lees contact adds a little texture and roundness to the palate. The colour is an intense, youthful purple. The nose is full of ripe red fruit, strawberry and dark berries, lifted by pepper, liquorice and a wild herb edge. The palate is fresh and juicy, with ripe tannin and an earthy grip from the soils. Serve at 15 to 16 degrees. It suits grilled meats, roast lamb and stews.