Masseria del Pino I Nove Fratelli 2019

I Nove Fratelli is made by Federica and Cesare of Masseria del Pino, who restored an old stone palmento on the northern slopes of Mount Etna at Randazzo in Sicily. The grapes are Nerello Mascalese with a little Nerello Cappuccio, farmed biodynamically, organically and made as a natural wine. Etna's high-altitude vineyards, planted on black volcanic soils of pumice, ash and mineral-rich debris, sit high enough that Nerello ripens slowly, and the sharp swing between warm days and cold nights preserves acidity and drives the aromatics and fine tannins the grape is known for. The volcanic soil is the source of the wine's savoury, smoky minerality. Fermentation typically runs on indigenous yeast with a medium maceration, and the wine spent around twelve months in barrel, enough to settle it and round the tannins while keeping the fruit fresh. The result is pale and bright, closer to Nebbiolo or Pinot Noir than to a warm-climate red. The nose shows wild berries, cherry, red currant, pepper, dried herbs and a stony, smoky edge; the palate is light to medium bodied, taut and fresh, the tannins fine and the finish long and mineral. Serve at 15 to 16 degrees. Good with poultry and game.