Martín Códax Gallaecia 2020

Martín Códax produces Gallaecia in the Salnés valley of D.O. Rías Baixas from Albariño, but only in vintages when the grapes reach high ripeness and develop noble rot, or botrytis. It is made from overripe fruit grown on the granite soils of a cool, damp Atlantic region, conditions that encourage botrytis to set in on the bunches. Botrytis concentrates the grapes by drawing out water, raising sugar and adding the honeyed, dried-fruit character that defines this style. Fermentation runs in stainless steel, and the wine is then held for around thirty-six months of reductive ageing, kept away from oxygen so it retains freshness and develops slowly on a base of vivid acidity rather than through oxidation. The result is a rich white with real concentration but a clear Galician backbone. The colour is bright, deep gold. The nose is intense and enveloping, with dried apricot, raisin, fig and orange marmalade over honey and white peach. The palate is concentrated and rounded, its sweetness and dried-fruit weight balanced by the sharp Atlantic acidity that keeps it from turning heavy, finishing long. Serve at 10 to 12 degrees.