Markus Molitor Graacher Himmelrecih Qualitätswein*** 2018

This Pinot Noir comes from Markus Molitor, working the famous Graacher Himmelreich vineyard on the steep slopes of the Mosel in Germany. The site is blue Devonian slate, a stony soil that drains fast, holds the day's heat into the cold night and pushes the vines to root deep, which suits Pinot Noir in this cool northern climate. The long, slow ripening of the Mosel keeps the alcohol moderate at 13 percent and preserves the bright acidity and red-fruit purity that mark cool-climate Pinot, while the slate lends a smoky, mineral edge. Farming is done with respect for the land. The wine ages 18 months in oak barrels, which softens the tannin and adds a fine woodspice and a touch of smoke without covering the fruit. It pours pale to medium ruby, with red cherry, raspberry and redcurrant on the nose over forest floor, earth and a flinty smoke. The palate is light to medium-bodied, fresh and silky, with fine tannin and a long, mineral finish. Serve at 14 to 15 degrees. It suits roast duck, game birds and mushroom dishes.