Maixei Dolceacqua Superiore Barbadirame 2024

Maixei's Barbadirame sits in the Superiore tier of DOC Rossese di Dolceacqua, made from Rossese di Ventimiglia grown on steep, hard to work terraces in the Ligurian foothills, the sort of extreme viticulture carried out by hand on plots torn from mountain, rock and sea. The poor, stony soils and the constant interplay of mountain air and sea breeze concentrate the fruit while keeping acidity intact, and the Superiore designation reflects riper grapes and a fuller structure than the standard wine. Where the entry bottling sees only steel, this cuvée is aged in wood, which rounds the tannins through slow oxygen exchange and adds a savoury, spiced layer over the variety's natural perfume. The colour is a deeper ruby. The nose offers red and dark cherry, plum, black pepper, dried Mediterranean herbs and a touch of leather. On the palate it is medium bodied, with fresh acidity, finer but more present tannins than the steel version, and a long earthy, herbal finish. Serve at 16 to 18 degrees, decanted briefly, in a Burgundy style glass. It pairs well with roast lamb, grilled red meat and mushroom dishes.