Ledaig 2009 BR (BB&R) (58.6%)

A Ledaig single malt, from the independent bottler Berry Bros & Rudd, a 10 year old from 2009, drawn from cask 700331 and bottled at 58.6%. Made on the Isle of Mull, Ledaig is the heavily peated malt of the island's only distillery. The stills carry boil bulbs and an S shaped kink in the lyne arms, which raises reflux.

Worked through high reflux stills from peated malt, for the smoky, maritime spirit Ledaig is known for. An ex-Bourbon barrel shaped it, vanilla under the maritime smoke. At a youthful age the smoke is vigorous and coastal. Years in oak round the smoke while the medicinal, tarry notes mellow. Burn Stewart revived production in 1993, and Distell bought the distillery in 2013. The stills carry boil bulbs and a kink in the lyne arms, which lifts the reflux. Water is drawn from a private hill loch, the Gearr Abhainn, above the town. Its painted home town gives the unpeated malt its name.

At a hearty 58.6% it carries real weight. A maritime smoke over ripe fruit, and vanilla and a soft oak come from the bourbon wood. Soft smoke and brine sit behind the cask sweetness. The close is long, smoke over a sweet fruit. This is a bold, peated island single malt.