Laurent Ponsot Mazis Chambertin Cuvée de l’Olivier 2021

Laurent Ponsot is among Burgundy's more singular growers, and the Cuvée de l'Olivier is his bottling of Mazis-Chambertin, a Grand Cru at the cooler northern end of Gevrey-Chambertin. The slope here sits on Bajocian limestone and clay over iron-stained marl, soils that hold water and lend the wine its firm structure and savoury, mineral edge. The east-facing aspect catches the morning sun while the altitude and the wide swing between day and night temperatures preserve acidity and the fine, perfumed aromatics typical of the commune. Pinot Noir from these older vines is fermented with a portion of whole bunches, which adds floral lift and a fine tannic frame, then matured in oak where slow oxygen exchange softens the tannins and knits the fruit together. The 2021 vintage was cool and gives a classic, restrained style. The colour is medium ruby. The nose shows wild cherry, redcurrant and dried rose over forest floor and a thread of liquorice. The palate is structured and long, with fine tannins, bright acidity and a savoury, stony finish. Serve at 16 to 17 degrees and decant an hour ahead. It suits roast beef, game birds and mushroom dishes.