Laurent Ponsot Latricières Chambertin Cuvée du Palmier 2021

Laurent Ponsot built his reputation in the Côte d'Or, and this Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru comes from one of the great climats at the southern edge of Gevrey-Chambertin. The vineyard sits on shallow limestone and marl soils on a cool, well drained slope, and that geology runs straight into the wine. Limestone and the cold continental climate hold the fruit back from over-ripeness, giving Pinot Noir its tension, fine tannin and lifted aromatics. The Cuvée du Palmier is fermented and aged in oak, where slow oxygen exchange softens the structure and knits the tannins without burying the fruit, the used barrels keeping any wood spice in the background. The result is a medium bodied red with a vivid, translucent ruby colour. The nose moves between red cherry, wild berry and dried rose, with a savoury layer of forest floor, woodsmoke and crushed stone underneath. The palate is precise and cool, with bright acidity, silky tannins and a long, mineral finish that reflects the limestone site more than the cellar. Serve at 16 to 18 degrees in a large Burgundy glass, and decant briefly if young. It suits roast duck, guinea fowl and dishes built around mushrooms.