Laurent Ponsot Griotte-Chambertin Cuvée du Saule 2021

Laurent Ponsot is one of Burgundy's more independent figures, and this comes from Griotte-Chambertin, a small grand cru on the eastern slope of Gevrey-Chambertin in the Côte de Nuits. The site sits on limestone and marl over a shallow, stony topsoil that drains freely and warms quickly, conditions that concentrate Pinot Noir and give the cru its name, griotte being the morello cherry. East-facing aspect and good drainage ripen the fruit steadily, while the cool Burgundian climate and limestone hold firm acidity and a fine-boned structure. The 2021 vintage was cool and low-yielding, which favours fragrance over weight. The wine is aged thirty months in barrel, a long elevage that lets slow oxygen exchange through the wood soften tannin and add a light savoury spice without burying the fruit. It pours a medium ruby. The nose leads with morello cherry and red berries, rose petal and a forest-floor earthiness. The palate is elegant and structured, with fine tannin, bright acidity and a long mineral finish. Serve at 16 degrees in a large glass, with an hour of air. It suits game and roast meats.